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All 924s are GT cars, designed to cross continents with 2+2 in comfort (well, for 2 anyway!) with a boot full of kit and handle well even by modern standards. They are practical, simple and yet still cheap, the perfect practical classic. The well maintained 924 will last indefinitely and will always be comfortable and practical.
The youngest of these cars is 20 years old - they cannot be ignored like modern motors, however they don't need to be pampered expensively either. By keeping on top of the faults as they happen the maintenance will be a trickle as sudden major component failure is very rare. Generally after 20+ years parts don't fail they just wear out..
There are 3 major types of 924; the 924 n/a, the 924 Turbo, and the 924 S. All are related and share many components but have very different engines.
For a practical and cheap classic for a beginner mechanic the 924 n/a is a simple beast but still delivers the grin factor. Not that quick but can hold its own in modern traffic. They can be maintained on a driveway with very few tools and little knowledge. Access to parts is generally good and there isn't anything the determined well equipped amateur can't do on these cars. Also suitable for the track day loons as they are proper wheel drive and even the basic car can shame modern stuff as long as there are enough corners to let you catch up!
For a proper modern classic the 924 S has a modern engine with modern performance - continent crossing made cheap and easy! While less forgiving of ham fisted mechanics than the n/a, the 944 based engine means parts are plentiful and help is never far away. This is also the only model with power steering.
For the keen there is the 924 Turbo - Less refined than the S and prone to the occasional dramatic problem but goes like a 1980's sports car should. Harder to work on and definitely more challenging all round but you can't beat the whistle of the turbo a couple of seconds before the boost catches up...
The n/a is usually the cheapest Porsche to buy here in the UK, Expect to pay £750 - £1200 for a good car for everyday transport. Over £1200 should get you an excellent 924 with service history. £200 - £500 would get you a car that runs, but is probably past it's best and will soon require major work to the body or engine. Under £200 will get you a parts car. For this guide we'll assume you'll be purchasing a car in the £750 - £1200 range.
The first time you drive a 924 you will feel like you are sitting on the floor. This may seem strange, but you will get used to it. Don't forget that the handbrake is on the right, beside the drivers seat. The gear lever may seem stiff, especially when engaging first or reverse; this is not usually a fault. As the gearbox is located at the rear of the car, and has a long linkage, combined with a short shifter, quite a lot of force is required to get into gear.
Firstly the body. As with most modern cars the 924 has a unitary construction and therefore no chassis. For this reason the body must be in good condition as localized rust or damage will affect the strength of the whole car. All 924s are galvanized to protect the body from rust, but the early 924s (-1980) had only the lower part of the body galvanized, whereas post 1980 cars are totally galvanized. As the body of later cars is fully protected rust should not be a problem, although if the car has been involved in an accident, the repair is likely to rust within a few years. So look for any evidence of repairs to the body. Check to make sure that all body panels line up correctly and that there is a consistent spacing between all of them. Look for signs of over spray on the underside of the car or in the engine bay, and look for differing texture ("orange peel") in the paint surface. On early cars the gutters on the roof may rust, so check these. The floor pan and sills should not be corroded thanks to the rust protection. But as it may have been damaged, check this carefully. If possible, jack up the car and inspect the underside. Poke the inner sills and floor with a screwdriver to ensure the metal is sound. These cars also have many problems with leaks in the hatch area, around the sunroof, and in the passenger footwell. Check around for water stains and rusting of exposed metal parts.
Leaks from the sunroof are usually caused by blocked up drain hoses. These hoses allow the water that accumulates in the drain canal around the sunroof to run out. Check to make sure that there is no debris in the tubes that will clog them up. The hatch can also leak. Leaks here are usually caused by a worn out hatch seal, blocked up spoiler drains, or a combination of the two. The spoiler drains are the two small rectangular holes on each corner of the spoiler. These can become clogged up, allowing water to build up & spill over the hatch seal. Replacement of the hatch seal and cleaning the drains will usually solve these leaks.
The final problem area of the 924 with leaking is the passenger footwell. The can problem occur when the battery leaks acid onto the battery tray (located directly above the passenger footwell in the engine compartment) and rusts it out. Eventually, the tray rusts completely through & allows water to enter the passenger cabin.
If there are leaks due to faults listed above, but otherwise the body is in a good condition, this could be used as a bargaining point.
The 924 has a straight forward 2 litre water-cooled straight-four engine derived from the Audi 100. The unit has been adapted for the 924 to connect to different engine mounts, and a transaxle at the rear of the car. A reconditioned engine would probably cost more than you paid for the car, so make sure you have a good one. As these cars may have been thrashed in a previous life by 80s yuppie types, this is especially important! The 924 engine doesn't use oil scraper rings on the pistons, so all engines will burn a little oil, and will emit a small amount of blue smoke on start-up. This smoke will however stop after a few seconds. When the engine is warm, while watching the exhaust, have someone rev the engine, no blue smoke should be emitted. If possible, check the engine in this way while it is under load, e.g. follow the 924 while it is being driven up a steep hill, and again watch for blue smoke. If there is any blue smoke walk away, this engine will need major work soon!
If the oil pressure gauge inside the car is believed to be working, you can check the pressure. When the car is cold, the oil is thicker. Normally this means when you first start the car the oil pressure will be 5 bar at idle. After warming up the car (typically, it takes approximately twice as long for the oil to reach operating range as your coolant does) it should drop to between 2 and 3 bar at idle. You don't need to worry unless it drops to or below 1 bar. If the oil pressure sender fails, typically the oil pressure will hit 5 bar as soon as you turn the key to the on position.
While driving the car, check for a vibration at idle, that disappears around 1200 rpm; this means one or more of the engine mounts may be worn-out. Not too much of a problem, but a bargaining point. The mileage on the Speedo is not very important as these cars can run for miles. Most cars would have covered over 100,000 miles by now. Unlike some cars, if the timing belt on the standard 924 should break, no damage to pistons or valves will occur as these do not occupy the same space. The belt is very easy to change, so evidence of belt changes is not really important.
Check the radiator for signs of damage. Due to the car being very low to the ground, stones can easily get flung up into the radiator.
The heater matrix valve is located just above the clutch housing, and is operated by a cable from inside the car. Check for signs of coolant leak from this valve. If it has been leaking, then the clutch has probably been contaminated and will require replacement soon. Also make sure the valve actually works, and the heater can be turned on and off.
Age and high temperature combine to make the coolant overflow tank swell and eventually fail. Check this for leaks. They usually go around the seams.
The 924 can have many electrical faults, so check this system carefully! The most important part is the heavy wire between the battery and starter. As this passes very close to the exhaust it is very common for the insulation to melt. This is very dangerous as the heavy cable could short out on the exhaust causing a fire or the battery to explode. Also, if the insulation on the small gauge wire that goes to the dashboard battery light, running parallel to the heavy cable, is also damaged, they could make contact. This would cause the light to be illuminated all the time, and hence drain the battery.
The headlamp motor is prone to problems as it contains switches that often fail. These switches mark the open and closed position of the lights, and are totally enclosed and not serviceable. You will therefore need a new motor if they fail. There is also a relay mounted on the motor, that is replaceable. If the headlamps do not raise when the switch is put into the DIP/MAIN position, or lower when put in the OFF position, try substituting the relay for a known good one and spraying WD40 on the connector. If this doesn't work, and the fuse in the box is OK, expect to replace the motor.
Another possible electrical problem is with the fuse box itself which is located in the passenger footwell. If the battery tray has corroded, water will come straight into the fuse box! This can affect almost all electrical items on the car and it is necessary to remove the fusebox completely from the car to effect a proper repair.
If the car is fitted with electric windows, check that these work properly, and the channels look OK. If the channels become dirty or warped, the power window motors may become damaged and eventually burn out. If the motor sounds like it is straining, or makes grinding noises it will more than likely need to be replaced in the near future. Cleaning the channels and making sure the windows are properly aligned will prevent damage.
Check the operation of all other electrical items including the electric mirrors, aerial, and headlamp washers as these are often overlooked.
As even the newest of thses cars will now be 20 years old, the interior is likely to be a little worn. The front seats often split along the seams if they are of the vinyl and velour type, but this can usually be repaired for a reasonable cost. The worst part is the top of the dashboard, which is made out of a material that cracks in the heat of the sun. If it is not cracked yet you are lucky!
Hold the steering wheel on each side and try to wobble it from side to side. This will show if the metal frame under the plastic rim is broken. This is quite often broken when the car is flung around corners at speed. As this is a safety related item, it must be replaced if you buy the car.
Of course, you should also check and double check the car as you would any other used car. Signs of accident damage, body repair, worn components etc should all be considered.
If all seems OK go ahead and strike a deal. If you are at all unsure, walk away. There are still lots of these cars out there to choose from!
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