Bodywork
Early cars were only partially galvanised (the lower half only). This means the roof gutters are susceptible to rot if water gathers. Which it does. Water then can enter the cabin, sit in footwells and rot the car from the inside out.
The rear hatch is also prone to rust on around the rear panel especially on the earlier cars. Poorly adjusted latches on the hatch damage the paint, trap water and can then lead to lots of remedial welding and painting.
Seals on the lift out roof and rear hatch can fail over time and these lead to water ingress. If the car is fitted with a spoiler, there are supposed to be drain holes in this- they often become blocked. Pooled water here can lead to leaks too.
Early ones can therefore suffer quite badly from rust and need very careful assessment. Of course, given enough time and skill they can be repaired and, it must be noted, they have suffered far less than their contemporaries from other manufacturers.
Visually, the Carrera GT differed from the standard 924 Turbo in that it had polyurethane plastic front and rear flared guards, a polyurethane plastic front spoiler, a top mounted air scoop for the intercooler, a much larger rubber rear spoiler and a flush mounted front windscreen. GT sills have body kits attached, these can trap mud and debris, as all such kits do. Genuine replacement body panels are very rare indeed, however fibreglass replica panels are available if you are willing to adapt to fit.
Decals for the GT including the large Porsche one above the rear bumper as well as the rear and wing decals are still available from specialist suppliers.
The 924 has a huge void behind the wheel that can collect road debris and act as a rust trap. There should be a small gap between the bottom edge of the inner and outer wing for drainage. If not kept clear water gathers and rust starts here. Poor repairs often close this gap up when a new wing is fitted, making the situation worse.
There is no scuttle panel, so don’t expect there to be one. That huge void is deliberate even though it looks odd. The battery sits in an exposed position on the bulkhead and, especially if cars are left to sit, can get water trapped under it. This leads to rust. Lift the battery out and inspect from above and inside the footwell. Evidence of repair needs questioning. Evidence of holes even more so due to the fuse box location. If the battery tray has leaked, then expect the footwell to have issues too. This can lie hidden beneath the underseal.
The boot of the car has two “pannier” style compartments for storage under the carpet. Lift these and inspect for water damage. There are supposed to be grommets with one way valves in there. These allow the water to escape that might be trapped but they’re often replaced with rubber bungs. Rust here is a pain as it’s near the fuel tank and repairs are tricky.
The spare wheel well should be checked too. On some cars this was a collapsible space saving spare. It should have a compressor kit too. Be aware the tyres on these are very expensive and you might find the spare is original so unsuitable for road use. While there, see if the production sticker is on the rear panel on later cars. If it is, there’s a good chance the car hasn’t had any damage on the rear end.
The sills are generally quite strong and resilient to rust. Check carefully for bends from poor jacking and for crunchiness when squeezed. The sills are painted with a black textured rubber from the factory, this can often be recoated to hide problems. Check carefully.
An internal inspection of part of the sills is possible. In the door jamb there is a removable vent (it just pulls out). A camera down here will let you inspect the state of the panels behind them. Even better if you have an endoscope.
Check that the sunroof opens and closes. Early cars work by manual clips that twist at the rear to allow them to sit in the gutter to tilt the roof. The later ones use electrically operated rams. If possible remove the roof and inspect the gutter. Corrosion or evidence of leaks is bad news. The drainage holes should be clear not full of water. The drainage holes lead to a braized socket under the interior trim. This can fail, leading to interior leaks. Check for evidence of this. Finally check the drainage pipes as they exit the body at the rear of the vehicle. The one on the exhaust side can seal up from the heat and then trap water.
All that sounds scary but the reality is these cars are remarkably tough and rust resilient not only for their time but generally compared to modern cars too. It is not uncommon to find 924s that have never been welded and show no sign of needing any in the future. Get a good one, treat it to some modern cavity waxes and expensive bodywork issues are unlikely to cause you issues.
