Engine and cooling
The S engine is another tough German unit, this time all alloy. It can stand 250k miles if well maintained but you must have proof of that maintenance. A disciplined oil change schedule is key to the longevity. If not, bore scoring can occur and higher oil consumption results. All engines, regardless of mileage should have had their oil and filter replaced annually.
Unlike the NA the timing belt is neither an easy job to replace nor a trivial matter if it breaks. If you take one piece of advice from this guide about the S, know when the belt was last changed, have proof of it or if not get it changed promptly. A failure in the timing belt on this is almost certain scrap the engine.
The timing and balancer belt needs changing every 4 years or 30-40k miles and you need evidence they have been done. Tensioning the belt is critical. It’s possible to do it yourself with the right tool. However poorly tensioned ones make the rollers whine or worse allow the belt to slip.
The tensioners, rollers, front oil seal, thermostat and water pump should be changes with the belt every 8 years. Again you need evidence of these or assume it hasn’t been done and you will need to budget for it to be done. Parts and labour for that major service will be £600-1000. No S should have its original water pump. If the pump seizes while running then the timing will be thrown and the engine ruined.
Slight mayo in the oil filler cap isn’t unusual as the long filler neck causes condensation. Really heavy gunge there or in the expansion tank and there are problems. The oil cooler seal might have failed or the head gasket. Neither are cheap repairs.
If the car has power steering fitted weeping from the reservoir is common. It’s normally fixed with a new hose clip. On the subject of the power steering, it is not on overly assisted system. It will fell weighty compared to a modern car’s system (and all the better for it in a sports car).
